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The procedures in this article are only guidelines. If caulking was cut, reapply the caulking and paint as required.If baseboards were removed, they can now be reinstalled to the wall.Verify that all perimeter gaps between the door and frames are consistent and correct for the manufacturer.Remove the spreader bar and hang the door back in the opening.Check for level and plumb before completely tightening.Once the jambs are correct, tighten the screws to the sill straps or frame face and also tighten the compression anchors.Set the hinge jamb next and repeat the previous step.Set the strike jamb first by adjusting the compression anchors and then checking squareness with the head.This will correct the door opening dimension by moving the jamb, rabbets, and faces into a parallel position. Insert the temporary spreader between the jambs, ensuring that all rabbets contact the setting spreader.Loosen the compression anchor screw on the jamb that needs to be moved to level the head.Determine whether to shim up the strike, hinge, or possibly both to level the head.If the head was not level, this needs to be corrected first.Be careful not to damage the wallboard when cutting. If the frame is caulked in place, take a razor knife and score along the return of the frame and wallboard to cut any caulking or paint that has been used.This will loosen the jamb and allow it to be squared and fix the twist. Remove the nails or screws that are securing the sill anchors to the wall.If the “out of square” condition is slight, some adjustments can be made by shimming and/or adjusting anchors, particularly if the frame being worked on is a slip-on drywall type. These types of situations would require extensive field repair and may result in having to remove frames from walls. Improperly set frames that are drastically out of square will cause severe door and hardware problems. In the majority of wall constructions, (“slip-on” drywall type frames being the major exception) “quick” or “easy” field fixes are limited.
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Proper frame installation cannot be overemphasized. Using Shims to Fix a Hinge Bind Against Stops
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The benefit of plastic is that when used in exterior or damp locations, it will not break down like a paper shim. Plastic materials are often easily found on the job site and are a fine choice for hinge shimming. Paper or cardboard should also never be used on a fire-rated opening since it may compromise the rating. However, it should not be used for exterior openings or anywhere moisture might be present. This material is a perfectly acceptable to use as long as it is for an interior opening that is not fire rated. It is simple to cut to size, and can be easily stacked or folded to the desired thickness. Many people prefer this material because it is readily available – even the hinge box is made of it! All have been used at one time or another for shimming hinges.Īre they all equally viable? Let’s examine them one by one. Job sites generally have all types of scrap material lying around such as plastic, paper, wood, and metal.
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There are many different materials used for the purpose of shimming hinges, but you should choose wisely rather than just grab whatever’s handy. Choosing Shim Materials (That Won’t Negate a Fire Rating)
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